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Monday, June 16, 2008

A note to our readers

On Tuesday afternoon, the News & Observer blogs will be moving to a new system and a new server. This change will make getting to our blogs quicker and easier. Most of the blogs will change their appearance, while blogs like Taking Stock and Under the Dome will remain the same.

This change requires nothing from the reader. There will be a link to the older posts, and you won't need to change your bookmarks. If you have trouble finding your favorite blog or you have a comment, please email feedback@newsobserver.com.

Rachel Carter

Posted at 05:30 pm by admin in Openings & Closings, Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog
Posted at 05:10 pm by admin in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog
Posted at 05:10 pm by admin in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Contest: Win dinner for two with the restaurant critic

In case you missed it yesterday, the N & O is sponsoring a contest. The winner will join my wife and me on an anonymous review dinner in an area restaurant.

Interested? Here are the details: http://www.newsobserver.com/987/story/1095454.html

Posted at 09:30 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Friday, May 23, 2008

Taste of Durham Festival!

Looking for something to do this weekend? Something that involves food, wine (or beer) and live music? Something that doesn't require a tankful of $4-a-gallon gas to get to? Then head over to the fourth annual Taste of Durham Festival, which is tomorrow (May 24) from 11am-7pm at the Imperial Center.

For details, check http://www.tasteofdurham.org/ .

Posted at 08:17 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Recipes from Elaine's

Today's Specialty of the House column features the recipe for Southern Fried soft shell crabs from Elaine's on Franklin in Chapel Hill. You can find that recipe here: http://www.newsobserver.com/lifestyles/food_fitness/specialty/

Owner/chef Bret Jennings was especially generous, and also shared two more recipes: a tempura variation on the soft shell crab dish, and a margarita granita which he likes to serve on top of oysters on the half shell (it's mighty fine by itself, too). Here are the bonus recipes:

Elaine’s tempura n.c. softshell crab on asian slaw w/ baby local mustard greens & spicy chinese mustard aioli

Aioli
Prepared spicy mustard
2 egg yolks
2 T. rice wine vinegar
1 t. salt
1 c. peanut oil

in food processor combine first four ingredients. With processor running slowly drizzle in peanut oil to emulsify into aioli. Check seasoning and adjust to personal liking. Place in a squeeze tube to allow for better garnishing. Can be made ahead.

Slaw dressing
1 T. minced garlic
1 T. minced ginger
¼ c. rice vinegar
1 T. fermented chile paste
1 T. soy sauce
1 T. sugar
2 T. sesame oil

Slaw-use sharp knife or mandoline for more precise vegetable slicing
1 small head purple cabbage thinly sliced
1 carrot thinly julienned
1 red onion sliced thin
1 red bell pepper julienned
1 yellow bell pepper julienned
¼ pound snow peas blanched and julienned
salt
chopped cilantro
½ pound baby mustard greens (local if available)

Combine all but herbs and greens in mixing bowl and toss with dressing. Let sit 30 minutes. Toss with herbs and greens and arrange on plates.

Tempura
1 c. flour
1 T. baking powder
1 T. sesame seeds
3 greens onions minced
1 t. salt
1 ¼ c. iced soda water

Stir with chopsticks just until incorporated. Stir every now and then for 30 minutes until melted ice is totally incorporated, then tempura is at its best.

3 c. peanut oil
6 soft shell crabs
black and white sesame seeds
cilantro leaves

Heat peanut oil to 375 degrees in a cast iron skillet or other heavy gauge pot. Clean crabs by removing gills, face and tail, then cut in half to have a set of legs on either side. Drop pieces of crab into tempura and carefully submerge into hot oil. Remove to paper towels to drain excess oil. Lay pieces of crab up against asian slaw salad and drizzle with chinese aioli in a zig-zag pattern. Lastly drop seseme seeds and a few cilantro leaves over top of aioli.

Makes 6 appetizers or 3 entrees.

Margarita Granita

Oysters and tequila are a great combination, and this one is a fun play on both when paired with very fresh oysters on the halfshell and the citrusy granita.

3 oz. sauza commemorativo tequila
½ oz. cointreau
¼ c. fresh squeezed lime juice
½ c. fresh squeezed orange juice
2 oz. simple syrup
1 t. salt

Add spirits to mixing bowl and with a whisk incorporate other ingredients gradually and slowly until you find the margarita flavor balance you like. Pour the margarita into a baking pan or other flat bottomed vessel that will fit onto a shelf in the freezer(the more surface area the faster the granita will freeze.) Using a fork, rake and stir the granita every fifteen minutes until it is completely frozen and evenly crystallized. Transfer to airtight container and keep frozen until needed. Keeps for one month.

Posted at 05:45 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Monday, May 12, 2008

Bargain Alert: Triangle Restaurant Week is here.

"One appetizer. One entree. One dessert. One price. One week only."

That's the slogan of Triangle Restaurant Week, which is this week (May 12-18). Two dozen area restaurants are participating, offering three courses for $25 (and some are also offering a $15 lunch deal). That's right, twenty-five bucks for three courses. And we're talking about restaurants like Frazier's, Zely & Ritz, Dos Taquitos Centro and Glenwood Grill.

Interested? Find out more at http://www.trirestaurantweek.com/

Posted at 01:17 pm by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Friday, May 9, 2008

Restaurants that go against the grain

Inspired by the recent closings of Red Palace and Tasca Brava, today's Chew on This! column in the N & O reflects on restaurants which have contributed something special to the Triangle by virtue of their going against conventional wisdom. I cite these restaurants as examples:

The Roast Grill, Raleigh - The granddaddy of no compromise, serving hot dogs grilled the old-fashioned way in a tiny shop that hasn’t changed since 1940. Still open for lunch only, and last time I checked, you still entered through a screen door. Don’t want a hot dog? You’re in the wrong place, because that’s pretty much all they sell. And whatever you do, don’t ask for ketchup.

Chops Steakhouse, Garner - A steakhouse that dry-ages its own beef on premises is rare, though I suppose it wouldn’t be too shocking to learn that one is opening in some trendy spot such as Glenwood South. But the outskirts of Garner? Where a dry-aged 14-ounce rib-eye will only set you back $26.95? Including sides?

Jibarra, Raleigh - In a region where, just a few years ago, avocado slices on your Tex-Mex combo plate were considered cutting edge, Jibarra’s elegant fine dining take on Mexican cuisine is daring indeed. And most welcome.

Piedmont and Rue Cler, Durham - After several false starts, it looks like the downtown Durham renaissance is finally for real this time. A lot of the credit goes to these two excellent restaurants, whose openings less than a month apart in late 2006 were the among the first signs of life in a long-dormant area.

Skipper’s Fish Fry, Apex - Talk about daring. How about opening a New England style fish fry in the heart of Calabash country? Fortunately, those of us who grew up believing in the sanctity of Southern style cornmeal-breaded flounder can assuage our guilt over enjoying cracker meal-breaded cod with a side of hushpuppies.

What do you think? Do you have any additions to the list?

Posted at 05:33 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog
The Mint awarded 3-1/2 stars

This week I review The Mint in downtown Raleigh. You can find the review here: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132 . Do you agree with my rating of 3-1/2 stars?

Note: I just read the final copy of my review in the N & O, and noticed that my editor, trying to be helpful, had inserted a "definition" of the term "sous vide," describing it as "a type of cooking with pressure." While that description may be scientifically correct (I'm certainly no scientist), it misses the point. "Sous vide" is French for "under vacuum," and it's just that: cooking under vacuum, usually in an airtight plastic bag. Just wanted to clear that up.

Posted at 05:07 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Sara Foster in Bon Appétit

Anyone else seen the June issue of Bon Appétit magazine yet? There's an article by the Triangle's own Sara Foster (owner of Foster's Market in Durham and Chapel Hill) featuring light pasta dishes for summer. Check it out!

Posted at 07:31 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Monday, May 5, 2008

Restaurants offering special Mother's Day brunch

These restaurants are offering a special brunch (or, in some cases, other meals) on Mother's Day. I'll update the list as I learn of others. For still more options, check my April 21 blog post, where I list restaurants which routinely offer Sunday brunch.

Azure Grille
407 Meadowmont Village Circle, in Meadowmont Village, Chapel Hill
960-0707
www.azuregrille.com

Big Ed’s
220 Wolfe St., in City Market, Raleigh
836-9909

Bistro 64
103 Edinburgh South Dr., in MacGregor Village, Cary
380-1322
www.bistro64.com

Blu Seafood & Bar
2002 Hillsborough Rd., Durham
286-9777
www.bluseafoodandbar.com

Carvers Creek
2711 Capital Blvd., Raleigh
872-2300
www.carverscreek.com

Chops
10920 Cleveland School Rd., Garner
550-8100
www.chopsteakhouse.com

Ciao! Osteria
121 N. Salem St., Apex
363-8350
www.ciaoosteria.com

Four Square
2701 Chapel Hill Rd., Durham
401-9877
www.foursquarerestaurant.com

The Irregardless Cafe
901 W. Morgan St., Raleigh
833-8898
www.irregardless.com

La Résidence
202 W. Rosemary St., Chapel Hill
967-2506
www.laresidencedining.com

Margaux’s
Brennan Station, 8111 Creedmoor Rd., Raleigh
846-9846
www.margauxsrestaurant.com

Panciuto
110 S. Churton St., Hillsborough
732-6261
www.panciuto.com
(dinner only)

Peking Garden
126 Millbrook Rd., in Colony Shopping Center, Raleigh
848-3023
www.pekinggardenraleigh.com

Saffron
4121 Davis Dr., in McCrimmon Corners, Morrisville
469-5774
www.saffronnc.com

Skylines Cafe
8878-100 Hwy. 70 West, Clayton
550-7619
www.skylinescafe.com

Sunset Grille
231 Grande Heights Dr., Cary
380-1991
www.sunsetgrillecary.com
(Cary location only)

Taverna Agora
6101 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh
881-8333
www.tavernaagora.com

Tavola Rossa
5300 Homewood Banks Dr., Raleigh
532-7100
www.tavolarossa.com

Zest Café
8831 Six Forks Road, Six Forks Station, Raleigh
848-4792
www.zestcafehomeart.com

Posted at 03:28 pm by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Friday, May 2, 2008

2 stars for Ichiban

This week, I review Ichiban, a new Japanese restaurant in Apex. Here's the link to the review: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132

I awarded Ichiban 2 stars. How many would you give it?

Posted at 08:10 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Free ice cream!

Pardon this little bit of shameless self-promotion, but I thought ice cream fans might like to know about a promotion that the N & O and Goodberry's (www.goodberrys.com) have teamed up to offer to print subscribers. The offer - buy one regular size concrete, get one free - is good at all Goodberry's locations (except the express location at the DBAP), and expires August 1. You'll need a coupon, which you can get by going to the N & O ZONE web page at www.newsobserver.com/zone. Click on the Goodberry's logo and print out the coupon.

Posted at 02:32 pm by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Friday, April 25, 2008

Crawdaddy's gets 2 stars

This week, I review Crawdaddy's Cajun Cafe in Carrboro. Here's the link to the review: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132

I rated Crawdaddy's 2 stars. What's your rating?

Posted at 05:43 am by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Greek Easter celebration at Xios

You don't have to be Greek to enjoy the Greek Easter celebration scheduled for this Sunday, April 27 at Xios (www.xioscafe.com) in Apex. All you need is a festive mood and a taste for lamb. The celebration begins at 12:30pm with family-friendly activities including clown antics, face painting and an Easter barrel dig. Live Greek folk music follows at 2pm.

Most enticing of all for the foodies among us are the lamb specials (lamb chops, roast leg of lamb, and lamb spit-roasted over an open fire) which will supplement the restaurant's regular Sunday menu. For more details, check the Xios web site or call the restaurant at 363-5288.

Posted at 02:00 pm by Greg Cox in Food for thought Epicurean: The Blog

About N&O Blogs
Greg CoxGreg Cox is the restaurant critic for The News & Observer. He was born in El Paso, Texas, and grew up in North Carolina on a diet of Southern fried chicken (the real thing, cooked up in a big, black cast iron skillet), fried okra, sweet sliced summer tomatoes and the best biscuits on the planet. He has cooked, catered, waited tables and dined in Europe, Canada, Mexico and much of the U.S. (especially the South, Southwest and Midwest).

Though not a graduate of a professional culinary institute, he has been a passionate student of the world’s cuisines for more than three decades. He learned to make a soufflé from Michel Pasquet, erstwhile owner of a Michelin two-star restaurant in Paris. He explored Moroccan cuisine with Paula Wolfert, long before couscous was cool. Jean Yueh, author of "The Great Tastes of Chinese Cooking," taught him a few chop sticks tricks. Biscuits, of course, he learned from his mom.

Read Greg's restaurant reviews, as well as Specialty of the House, a recipe request column, and Epicurean.

Contact Greg at ggcox@bellsouth.net.


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